Month of January, 2008

Bustin' Down the Door is going to be a super rad surf flick.

Before pro surfing found it's way, there were some super maverick pioneers that forced their vision for aggressive surfing coupled with a rock-star thirst for fame onto the surfing scene. This was well before there was actual money in the sport, so these guys were pioneering an underground culture and threading the needle between big, life-threatening waves, horny girls, drugs, and tropical diseases like malaria to forge what is currently pro-surfing today. This is going to be a hooot.

It's a really sad set of news to come out from the Peter Davi's toxicology report. It indicated that he had a significant amount of methamphetamine in his system when he died at Ghost trees last December.

As a big wave surfer, I was deeply saddened to find out that Davi had died. I am even more deeply saddened by the fact that he was high when it happened. Not judging the man here, but holy cow...the most difficult thing about surfing big Nor Cal waves is calming down your heart so that you can maintain composure in life threatening conditions. I can't even imagine what it must feel like to be hopped up on Meth, paddling your for your life to either a) scratch over a set, or b) commit to drop into a wave.

Surfing big waves always requires preparation. I never feel fully prepared. I always want more strength, more endurance, a slightly longer board, and more balls. But hopping out on Meth is not what would ever occur to me.